:: Spotlight :: 2008 L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion FestivalBy: Carmine Pascuzzi / Maraika van Wessem; pictures by Matt DellerFrom March 2-9, 2008 Melbourne is set to be the centre of glamour and sophistication as it hosts the 12th L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival (LMFF). Amid much excitement and anticipation, the fashion-loving community will be able to witness a range of runway shows and activities. Recognised for its role in launching the autumn/winter collections of Australia’s leading designers and brands, the LMFF remains unique in delivering state-of-the-art fashion ‘happenings’ to the public, not just to fashion’s inner circle. The Festival is also an important player in Australia’s international fashion business arena. The annual LMFF Business Seminar brings together an international line-up of influential and respected authorities from all over the world to deliver expert industry intelligence to a professional audience. The visual imagery that Festival Director Karen Webster and the creative team have developed for the 2008 Festival channels the magical glamour fashion images in Man Ray’s photos of the 1920s and 30s, combined with an ultramodern spirit. This combination of a rich history and an exciting future can also be seen in the choice of location for the home of the majority of 2008 LMFF runway shows and activities – Central Pier at the Docklands. As well as staging seven L’Oréal Paris Runway Shows during the Festival week, Central Pier will be the spot where guests can enjoy a glass of wine or a tasty morsel at one of the many purpose-built bars and meeting points. The ability to connect with everyone in the city, however, is not overlooked and the Pop Up fashion catwalks that were such a success last Festival - popping up everywhere from City Square to Federation Square - expand their reach in 2008 with the first Pop Up being staged on the massive grounds of the Melbourne Cricket Ground. The Sofitel Hotel Grand Ballroom will host 1000+ delegates whose interest in fashion is as much about the bottom line as it is about glamour. The much anticipated annual LMFF Business Seminar will be chaired by globetrotting Time Magazine fashion journalist, Marion Hume and the 2008 line-up of international presenters includes Newsweek’s European cultural and fashion writer, Dana Thomas, who recently released her book, ‘Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Lustre’ to critical acclaim; Sir George Cox, Chairman of the British Design Council, whose review of creativity for the British Government is having a major impact on how the UK does business; retail design master Kenneth Walker who has helped many of the world's major retailers translate their marketing objectives into experiential spaces; Wendy Liebmann, CEO of WSL Strategic Retail and author of “How America Shops”; and the doyenne of British haute punk, Zandra Rhodes. Government House will be the beautiful setting for the Festival’s exclusive Opening Party presented by L’Oréal Paris. The ‘Salon’ shows get a make-over in 2008: the Fashion Collections, presented by the City of Stonnington are a more personalised series of catwalks that will be held inside the Prahran Town Hall. As always there will be a dedicated youth catwalk show: the Independent Runway presented by Mini where new careers are launched and nurtured. Target Rocks Red Market will reside indoors and out at Central Pier. At last year’s Festival, Target had phenomenal success launching Stella McCartney for Target. This year at Target Rocks Red Market the company will announce yet another international designer label for its domestic market. Finally, LMFF’s Cultural Program will once again be in full swing throughout the city at the 2008 Festival, bringing together a mix of film, installations, exhibitions and performances linked by a fashion theme. The 2008 L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival will be held March 2-9 and tickets can be booked through Ticketmaster or phone 13 61 00 ******************************************************************* For the past eleven years the LMFF Designer Award presented by Woolmark has been part of the Festival’s commitment to encouraging innovative Australian fashion, recognising excellence within the industry and providing a platform for future success. Finalists in the 2008 LMFF Designer Award presented by Woolmark are: Past winners include: Toni Maticevski, S!X, Mad Cortes, Josh Goot, T.V and Yeojin Bae. The winner of the 2008 LMFF Designer Award presented by Woolmark will be announced at a special presentation during the Festival week on Tuesday, March 4 at Atlantic, Central Pier. Woolmark will present the winner with a $10,000 cheque and commemorative award. The winning designer will also be flown to either Premier Vision (Paris) or Pitti Filati (Florence) as a guest of Woolmark. ****************************************************** One of the most anticipated runway on the 2008 L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival program is the Independent Runway presented by MINI, supported by Pagesonline. Reflecting fashion’s contemporary spirit: progressive, advanced, innovative and fresh, the Independent Runway promises to inspire and excite with a presentation of Australia’s emerging fashion designers. The Independent Runway showcases the latest in youth fashion in an ultra-modern Runway show fusing cutting-edge fashion, style and music. Energy levels will be at a maximum in one of the most exciting and dynamic runway shows of the Festival week. With an inspiring line-up of Australia’s new breed of fashion forward and globally relevant designers, the Runway will be on fire with the following designers: The event will also embrace music from the hottest new musical talent, as designers and musicians fuse together their creative ideas. Karen Webster, Festival Director (LMFF), says, “LMFF has always been strongly involved in the development of emerging designer talent. The Independent Runway has been pivotal to the Festival’s role in supporting the Australian fashion and design industries, fostering and contributing to the growth of the Australian fashion landscape. The 2008 Independent Runway presented by MINI continues to be a core Festival event as the ‘discovery of the new’ becomes even more important in today’s industry.” Independent Runway presented by MINI will be held on Sunday evening, March 9 at 8.30pm at the uber cool Peninsula, Central Pier, Docklands. *************************************************** The L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival (LMFF) has proudly supported the Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation (OCRF) for five years. This year, the charity will again benefit from the Festival’s stylish fundraising efforts in a show stopping event: Runway Deluxe presented by Myer and supported by Madison. Guests at Runway Deluxe will be delighted by a Runway show featuring international designers; Cacharel, DKNY, Donna Karan, Hugo Boss, Moschino Cheap & Chic, Narciso Rodriguez, Paule Ka, Rebecca Taylor, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, Tara Jarmon and along with Australia’s very own international stars including camilla and marc, Jayson Brunsdon, Josh Goot, Karen Walker, Kate Sylvester, Leona Edmiston, Mad Cortes, Maticevski, Nicola Finetti, Wayne Cooper and Yeojin Bae (winner of the 2007 LMFF Designer Award). After the Runway show, followers of fashion, lovers of glamour and those who are passionate about supporting medical research will gather for the Deluxe Supper to complete a truly spectacular evening. Commencing at 8.00pm on Thursday March 6, guests will be welcomed at Peninsula, in the heritage-listed Shed 14 at Central Pier Docklands. A special performance by Kate Ceberano will enchant guests as they sip on Champagne Devaux and sit for a silver supper designed by Guy Grossi. Tickets to this event are $250* and ‘Silver Tickets’ can be pre-purchased or purchased on the evening for $50 each for a chance to win fabulous prizes. All proceeds will go to the Festival’s official charity, the Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation. Liz Heliotis, CEO of the OCRF comments, “The Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation is very proud to be aligned with the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival (LMFF), which has continued to grow and evolve and is now the largest consumer and retail fashion event in Australia. The background palette of fashion and creativity allows us to illustrate the beauty, elegance and courage that women battling this disease walk with in their daily lives.”
*********************************************************** The Central Pier, Docklands will be the stage for the L’Oréal Paris Runway Shows. This will be the daily fashion experience for many fashion watchers and a great line-up of established and emerging Australian designers will showcase their talents. L’Oréal Paris Runway 1 presented by Harper’s BAZAAR will see a line-up of directional and innovative designers, with a modern fresh and innovative approach. Monday, March 3, 6.30pm camilla and marc L’Oréal Paris Runway 2 presented by VOGUE Australia will feature sophisticated, chic and globally acclaimed designers. Tuesday, March 4, 6.00pm Anna Thomas L’Oréal Paris Runway 3 presented by Madison will showcase sought after collections that are creative and the ultimate in contemporary style. Tuesday, March 4, 9.00pm Arabella Ramsay L’Oréal Paris Runway 4 presented by InStyle will feature show-stopping Red Carpet style that will exude elegance and glamour. Wednesday, March 5, 6.00pm Aurelio Costarella L’Oréal Paris Runway 5 presented by YEN will have a razor-sharp line-up of inventive, international and national stars with distinctive styling. Wednesday, March 5, 8.30pm Antipodium L’Oréal Paris Runway 6 presented by Men’s Style in collaboration with Madison will present the season’s edgiest and stylish menswear combined with some of Australia’s most bold, sassy and sparkling womenswear. Thursday, March 6, 6.00pm Bettina Liano L’Oréal Paris Runway 7 presented by Oyster is where some of the Australian fashion’s biggest success stories, will present their latest collections – a show that is cutting edge and unique. Friday, March 7, 6.30pm Alpha 60 ****************************************************** The line-up of Pop-Up Shows are as follows: Monday, March 3 at 7.30am at the Melbourne Cricket Ground - BONDS ****************************************************** **Pictures from Highpoint morning tea**
**************************************************** **LMFF Opening Party at Government House** A star-studded line-up of fashion industry identities and special guests helped kick off the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival at Government House under sun-drenched skies. Amongst the visiting guests was high-profile Dutch model Doutzen Kroes, brought here by L'Oreal as a spokesmodel. She is a high money earner overseas, mainly through her L'Oreal and Victoria's Secret profile, and we soon found out, through her natural beauty and charm, as to the reason why. It was her first visit to Melbourne and she enjoyed her short stay. The opening party was established like a 1950s ballroom as models and dancers provided a sparkling start to proceedings, before the Victorian Premier John Brumby officially launched the LMFF. Other guests included Miranda Otto, the Face of the 2008 LMFF, Kristy Hinze, Megan Gale and famous British fashion personality Zandra Rhodes. Designers on show at the Opening Party included Toni Maticevski, Romance Was Born and Wayne Cooper. Pictures by Matt Deller
****************************************************** L’Oreal Paris Runway 4 and 5 - by Maraika van Wessem Wednesday’s runway shows at Docklands were an eclectic mix of flowing feminine dresses, rough and ready farm wear and the offbeat colours of a bygone hippy era. Led by Gwendolynne’s light ruffles and feminies lines, the shows displayed a range of styles that were either extremely practical or very left of centre, saluting modern society minority groups, including bikers, angst emo, farmers and even navel influences. Thurley's layered dresses acknowledged the unpredictable weather conditions of Melbourne. Practical and so wearable, the dresses, featuring crocheted and lace detailing, were teamed with oversized cardigans, for feminine, modern, city comfort. Aurelio Costarella’s dresses were whimsical, light and flowing in gold and bronze. The highlight featured statement sleeves with layered leather petals, however, corset tops were ill fitting, and this removed the element of style to the latter offerings of his parade. Geek library girl chic was on parade by both Mad Cortes and Fleur Wood. Mad Cortes’ offering was reminiscent of a demure librarian, with lengthy and untucked shirts, big feature bows and attention demanding tartan scarves, teamed with large overcoats and geeky glasses. Fleur Wood’s offering was demure and of another era with striking yellow prints and wearable, light airy peasant dresses in burnt and bold 70s colours. Pussy bow blouses were tucked into high waisted pencil skirts. Another designer who took us back to the 70’s burnt shades was Nevenka, whose boho use of orange and olive was reminiscent of the flocked wallpaper prints of that era. Collets made a comeback teamed with this season’s fruity blueberry tights. Leather in green olive was teamed with floaty headscarves. After the practicality and wearability of the first offerings of the night, the second runway show was a little more, left of centre. Antipodium kicked it off with a sailor look of stripes and cravett ties. Claude Maus used tartan with “jump on your horse” leather pants and jodhpurs, and japara style jackets in a unique leather brown material. Other statement pieces belonged to NOM*d, who used emo florals and biker purple and black teamed with tough metal detailing and rugged Dr Martins boots. An entire planet away, Zambesi entertained the unlikely combination of lace, reflective silver, tassels, and a little Scottish tartan. Notably, nobody was bored; the eclectic mix was a nice treat. Varied, fresh and unpredictable, we were satisfied with this season’s offerings and perhaps even convinced to wear fruity tights at the very next opportunity. RUNWAY 4
RUNWAY 5
************************************************************ **Pictures from Chadstone fashion parade** As part of the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival, Chadstone marked itself as the Fashion Capital with another of its VIP shopping nights, which included fashion parade. Here are some pictures from the occasion.
********************************************************** **General thoughts on the event** Melbourne recently hosted the annual L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival and it was a terrific success. With the main activities occurring at the Central Pier sheds in Docklands, the general public and visiting guests witnessed some very enterprising designs from established and up-and-coming designers. Some things that were noted: We saw well-strcutured, intrictae pieces with either high or low hemlines. There were slinky satin fabrics amongst daywear collections, and clusters of sequins on show for a slightly bolder statement. Of course, leather was popular throughout the shows, particularly the waist jackets as an inspiring look over a slinky dress for something edgy. And, the leggings were most ubiquitous, especially those of a fluorescent nature. Overall, organisers should be pleased with the conduct of the event. The activities and parades ran pretty smoothly and the Docklands set-up satisfied the public and media. It was probably the best LMFF for a few years. A selection of general photos from the week - by Matt Deller
********************************************************** L’Oreal Paris Runway 1 Prominent names formed the eagerly awaited Runway 1 line-up. The refined and wearable pieces by sass & bide were very impressive and there was some of the past carnival-themed collection. Marnie Skillings showed a most colourful feel with orange and pink very bright and dominant. A playful collection that included a ballerina print on skirts - very feminine. Jayson Brunsdon displayed silky touches and knee-length skirts amongst interesting colour contrasts. Very good for any situation and most stylish. Kirrily Johnston showed off prominent black and brown palettes - in a relaxed set of dresses/cardigans. Quite a dark, gloomy look also, and particular figure-hugging. Camilla & Marc showcased a colourful range, with minis very short, including a rainbow-sequined one. It is simple and effective in how they utilise the material. Ginger & Smart are very eclectic and creative. They've come on in leaps and bounds in recent times and set the thought patterns racing - is their abstract look ready for the everyday person?
********************************************************** **L'Oreal Paris Runway 2** One of the surprise packets and highlights of the whole week was Megan Park. She provided lovely, sparkling designs; beautifully detailed in black and beige range. A long black velvet gown was one of the best attractions. Meanwhile, a silver trench coat highlighted the Christine range. It complemeted the mainly dark palette. Easton Pearson displayed unique fabrics, noticeable with a bold white and green floral coat. Emerging designer Yeojin Bae showed a very detailed and precise line of 70s styled pieces - pantsuit, jumpsuitamongst them. It was very smart. The TL Wood collection offered a stylish and comfortable look, especially in the use of frills in a couple of gorgeous cocktail dresses. Good options for the working woman also. A very casial and youthful look epitomised the Lee Mathews range. Noticeable was a 70s influence of deep turquoise and light mustard which would no doubt brighten up the winter. Toni Maticevski displayed an elegant collection - figure-hugging after-five styles. They are very textured and precisely constructed - very beautiful.
************************************************************ **L'Oreal Paris Runway 3** Zimmermann showed a vintage look - delicate floral prints, 70s girly dresses and high-waisted minis. Black was prominent in a simple, efficient range. Arabella Ramsay was very snappy and wearable. Kate Sylvester displayed simple, strappy black dresses and other playful designs. She was able to pull out something interesting and contrasting. Obus opted for a vintage look in the use of berets and slouchy jackets, in an array of purple and brown. Little Joe by Gail Elliott is a label by the former international model. She brings a very polished and feminine collection in the form of evening gowns and string bikinis. Gail Sorronda showcased a figure-hugging collection of little black dresses; slinky designs with frilled hems and sheer panels. Life With Bird continue their development with a very futuristic look - soft greys and browns with subtle metallic fabrics. There was a heavy metal theme.
*********************************************************** **L'Oreal Paris Runway 6** Much was promised from this parade as it would contain a smattering of male fashion. Some elegant pieces (mostly black) marked the Wayne Cooper women's range. An amazing pink satin trench coat dress was a revelation though. The Frisoni Finetti menswear was eye-catching with a stiff black t-shirt, oversized men's bag and thin jumpers. White Suede contained thick grey stockings, a printed blouse with classic tight jeans, and a green leather jacket. Lots of bold textures and fabrics marked Kerry Grima's designs. Impressive gold bomber jacket and mini dress with straight neckline and long sleeves to produce a 70s glam look. One Fell Swoop had a strong musical accompaniment. A capable female singer delivered a polished performance whilst the models around her showed various pieces - including a short hooded jacket, a man's ivory shirt and shorts in light pinstripes. Bettina Liano had a classic rockstar look - black tight pants and singlet and classic biker black jacket, plus a leather mini dress. Morrissey showed mostly black with an orange jacket thrown in to the mix. Lots of shiny fabrics and plunging necklines. It finished with a sparkling mini - black with red shine to the amount of sequins.
******************************************************************* **L'Oreal Paris Runway 7** This runway parade comprised nine designers but the event seemed to boil down as to what either Material Boy or Romance Was Born could produce. Friedrich Gray won this year's prize as the LMFF Designer Award and duly opened proceedings this night. There were some raw and interesting pieces with loose cowhide featuring in men's and women's garments. Also, loose sweaters and tight pants. Shakuhachi showcased a very modern and wearable range - various fabrics and colours. Kate Hurst had floral prints, leather, frills - in mostly short dresses of which some sparkled. Leopold presented its menswear as very chic and modern. There were terrific leather jackets and tweed coats. The suits were attractive - of mostly grey and black. Su was quite flirty in the cocktail dress sense - generally a mix of soft and hard elements to the collection. Alpha 60 showed mostly blacks and greys to deliver a sleek collection. TV had some delightful pieces, including its regular lycra foray (in full length body suits and bike pants). Then it was the final two. Material Boy sent out their male models with faces covered in sheer black stockings. The garments were typical - oversized and easy to wear, some apparent untidy tailoring with deliberate mismatches. But's that is why Material Boy is unique. Romance Was Born adopted a Garden Of Eden theme - naked men, fabric (and forbidden) apple, female dancer in sexy leotards. She then writhed around on the floor before the parade officially commenced. The first model accepts an apple from the dancer and away we go. Lots of detail in the collection - unusual constructions, mish-mash of oversized garments and childish looking prints. It was all very entertaining in its artform. Whether or not it will drive Romance Was Born to further success remains to be seen.
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