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:: Spotlight :: 2010 Rosemount Australian Fashion Week - Beauty Trends

By: Lucy Q

Rosemount Australian Fashion Week (RAFW) Spring Summer 2010/11 will take place from May 3-7, 2010 against the spectacular backdrop of Circular Quay. A selection of Australia and the Asia Pacific’s best designers will present their collections to some of the world’s most significant members of the fashion industry.

RAFW is an exclusive industry-only event, made accessible to registered buyers, agents, media, stylists and other fashion industry representatives. The five day official schedule features designers in on-site and off-site Collection Shows, Emerge, The MCA and the Westin Sydney Suites. This year celebrates fifteen years of Australian Fashion Week.

IMG Fashion celebrated the launch of the RAFW 2010 program with the opening of the Frock Stars exhibition at Sydney’s Powerhouse Museum. The Frock Stars event took hundreds of leading designers and fashion industry experts behind the scenes at Australian Fashion Week – going as far back as its first show in 1996. Some of the best outfits from the past fifteen years, exclusive footage, live studio re-creations and even a vault of the extremely colourful invitations provided more than just a trip down memory lane.

This season’s Spring Summer Collections will showcase more than 100 designers in 45 Collection Shows, over 50 accessory designers in Emerge and over 40 designer collections available for viewing at The MCA Showrooms and The Westin Sydney Suites.

For the fourth consecutive year, Redken 5th Avenue NYC will be the official hair partner of Rosemount Australia Fashion Week with a line up of almost 30 shows and a team of leading stylists from across the country.

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Emerging designers kick off pre-RAFW frenzy - Beauty trend alert: The new nude

Pre-Fashion week is a time where some designers choose to kick it off before the major frantics begin during the official RAFW. Being Born Again – a couture fashion event, not only made its debut, but lashed out an unprecedented collaboration of fashion designers and artists. Lulu in Chains collaborated with new design team D&Em, and has chosen to reappear this week at The Loft – one of Sydney’s leading cocktail lounges. In this enchanting French gothic room, Notre Dame cocktails were served with delectable canapés that welcomed the Autumn/Winter SEASONS event hosted by 2threads.com.au.

Lulu in Chains’ collection was feminine, but a little reckless, featuring wing inspired designs, monochromatic and layered dresses, and top notch styling by BAANUcouture.com. In stark contrast to these designs, Christopher Hanna Hair created a natural look with long tousled curls. Napoleon Perdis cosmetics were used to create the make-up look. The make up was fresh with a glowing complexion, teamed with dark eyes and nude lips that complemented the ‘elegant rebel’ look. It was natural but sexy, seductive but not overdone.

Here’s how to get the look:

FACE:
To get clean, natural skin, apply Boudoir Mist Airbrush Foundation to the face. Create contoured cheeks with your favourite soft coloured blush that is similar to the colour of the lips, and apply it on the apples of the cheeks.

EYES:
This look is about smouldering, strong eyes. Using Surreal World Prismatic Eye Quads create this smokey effect and team it with China Doll Gel Eyeliners. Wing it out for extra oomph, and add another layer on top using Mesmer-Eyes Liquid Liner pen. Now, finish off the eyes with full, thick, and defined lashes using Mesmer-Eyes Mascara.

LIPS:
The look for the lips is YLBB (your lips but better), but make sure the nude has a hint of colour to balance out the strong eyes.

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Exclusive Behind The Scenes – Konstantina Mittas’ soft powdery palette and gravity defied hair

Imagine… Peering through a cloud of darkness, you make out a vague impression of a live operatic performer, whose high-pitched lyrical screams are mixed with chimes and drums. The lights flash and out appear gravity defying dresses, nude toned leathers, and cellophane-esque fabrics in a powerful mustard gold. The music moves to a crescendo, the singer yelps orgasmic sounds, and suddenly the energy turns overtly sexual. Cheeky tights with cut outs around the buttocks sensually appear through the sheer fabrics that sculpt the hips, with model silhouettes resembling a Greek mystical goddess. It is a drama of psychedelic prophecy, and it makes you feel sensual, mystical, and alive.

This was the RAFW show of Konstantina Mittas who never fails to leave a strong impression on me. Inspired by William Blake’s painting ‘The Night of Enitharmon’s Joy’, where the Greek moon goddess Hecate rules over a dark, electric landscape of thunder, lightning, and wild dogs.

The Beauty team with sponsors Cloud Nine, Redken, and MAC encapsulated this dramatic, futuristic quality. Let’s see what the hair and makeup directors have to say, through some exclusive behind the scenes interviews.

Jon Pulitano, Hair Director

What’s the inspiration behind this hair design?

Knowing Konstantina and having had a chat with her, I know that she does this whole world meets the future type of stuff. Basically the inspiration for the look is a mystical world, mixed with an early 1900’s kind of thing. I did some research on older mystical shapes and then thought – how would I bring this into a futuristic way? I workshopped that and this is what I came up with.

How are you using Cloud Nine to create this look?

We basically curled the hair at the top to create this texture. The beauty of using Cloud Nine is that we could keep it at a low heat, which meant that it was going to still keep maximum body in the hair. We then used Redken Body Full and Root Full 06 on the whole of the head, and that created a really fluffy texture that we could work with. Then we used hair props to create the lifted shapes. We carefully contoured the shape to get beautiful linear round movements through it to keep it soft and feminine, while still being so avant garde. The whole idea was to go avant garde, but then maintain a level of Grecian goddess – it’s Venus meeting a little sci fi.

Can this look be reinterpreted at home?

Absolutely. If there’s any runway look that is at an avant garde level, it can easily be brought down to earth. For a scaled down, softer finish, I would recommend the Redken Body Full and Root Full 06 to create fluffing. Take the hair up into a simple twist at the back, use something like the Cloud Nine to create some soft curls at the top for body in the hair. We don’t really want to backcomb too much when we’re doing this look at home. Keep the look soft by brushing through the curls to create texture at the top.

Vanessa Katama, Make-Up director

Why did you choose to design this particular look?

After I saw the hair that Jon was doing with a really elevated lift, I wanted to incorporate that lift into the makeup as well. Konstantina was really inspired by a beautiful painting that had a painterly, powdery finish. It’s a female figure sitting in the foreground and the artist had an aqua colour on the tights of the figure, and some pinks through that as well. We have taken the colours from the painting, while recreating the same powdery finish on the skin.

What are the elements of this palette?

It’s all about buffed beautiful skin, either being iridescent or matte, and then complimented by beautiful pastel colours or more dramatic light effects. We are incorporating a lot of powder elements, such as utilizing powders, setting the face, and building up the textures on the skin. To get that buffed effect on the skin, we’re using round brush motions so that the makeup isn’t just caked on top but sitting in a powdered way.

How do you feel about this palette?

I think these colours are beautiful and fresh, it’s nice to see some really soft pastel colours being incorporated. It’s a dramatic look but it’s also quite pretty, it’s still got softness to it and a painterly treatment.

What do you think will be in this season?

I think a few pastels are going to be coming back. We’ve seen a lot of pastels being incorporated this Fashion Week. There’s a bit of an 80’s thing happening. The key colours and key products that highlighted that era are being brought back.

Can we create this look at home and make it wearable?

Of course, you might want to pull back on certain elements of the look, for instance just applying the aqua directly without the chromaline underneath — the chromaline is really just to intensify the colour for the cat walk. The pinks are obviously a beautiful way that you can wear your makeup everyday.

Here’s your How To:

Apply MAC Face & Body Foundation to the skin to achieve a clean palette. Set the foundation with MAC Prep & Prime Loose powder. Do not apply it too heavily but enough to give it a flat finish.

Sweep MAC Sheertone Blush in Pink Swoon and MAC Blush in Well Dressed onto the cheek and just underneath the eye to contour to cheekbones. Lift the colours up onto the brow and temple.

Apply MAC Chromaline in Pure White to the lid of the eyes. Buff it in with a larger eye shadow brush so that it disperses across the eye. Blend it onto the lid and up into the temple. This will intensify the aqua powder, to be applied and buffed on top.

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**Less Heat, More Style – Cloud Nine: the new heaven, for hair**

It’s only been two months and already some of Australia’s most fashion forward designers are on Cloud Nine. Except this sort of heaven doesn’t involve angels and Philedelphia cream cheese, but rather, a rock mineral plate and hair.

What?

That’s right ladies – a new hair phenomenon that is going to take over Australia (and quite possibly the world, and your life), has arrived. It’s called Cloud Nine - a new breakthrough hair iron that has already saturated the Australian market.

This bad boy has six temperature settings and ceramic plates with a pearlescent sparkle. It features automatic hibernation, a heat-resistant storage and individual ID numbers. A swivel cord ensures the iron never gets tangled and universal voltage perfect for travel-savvy fashionistas. There’s a few versions: the Cloud Nine Wide and Micro Iron. The Cloud Nine Wide Iron works well for long, thick or curly hair types with its wider plates making for faster styling times. The Cloud Nine Micro iron measures just 15cm, and is small enough to fit in a handbag for touch-ups during the day. Gee whiz, these guys really did think it all through!

In Camilla & Marc’s show, I witnessed Cloud Nine’s debut through the creation of a soft, textured low pony – something I rarely see done well. No, it wasn’t just a boring ponytail, now while I’ve got to admit - glossy ponytails are a been-there-done-that kind of thing, a textured, suave but ever-so-slightly dishevelled ponytail is one of those combinations that have traditionally been an oxymoron. Not to mention – hard to achieve, especially with irons that flatten the life out of hair. However, this look was in line with Camilla & Marc’s collection, as it opened up the neckline and showcased their beautiful high necklines and sheer fabrics.

I interviewed hair genius Jon Pulitano, hair director of Camilla & Marc’s show, who recently returned from Paris and Milan fashion weeks.

What’s the technology behind Cloud Nine?

There’s a new patented Korean rock mineral in the plate itself, and that’s what keeps the heat settings anywhere up to 75% lower than most other irons on the market. The plates seal the hair so well, but the heat doesn’t need to be that hot.

What’s the difference between Cloud Nine and other irons?

You can achieve a better result and still have (which is the most important thing) body in the hair. When hair gets too hot, sure you get the curl, but it’s kind of ironed down and a little on the flat side. So it means for most looks, the hair isn’t dead - it’s kind of alive, so shiny, and never flat. For me, I run a salon everyday, and I do editorial work and I’m always looking for the latest product to give my clients the latest in hair care. Having used Cloud Nine, I cant go back.

What temperatures did you use for Camilla & Marc’s show?

Today, for the soft wave we’ve been using 150 or 125 degrees.

Isn’t that still pretty hot?

Yes, but not in comparison to 240 degrees. Basically when you take the hair out of the iron and touch it, it’s just warm. Whereas sometimes we take the hair out of the iron and it’s – “ouch I just burned my hand”. So that’s a huge difference, 125 degrees is hot, but 240 degrees is ouch. I think that while most people liked the ghd or other irons, a lot of people were saying “I don’t want to use it anymore because it’s making my hair too flat”.

Well sometimes I find that the GHD gets stuck in my hair…

That’s the difference. If you have a look at the plate on Cloud Nine, it’s really shiny and glimmers. Basically all you need to do is open the iron, curl your hair around the iron, close it in. Then you’d think – how on earth is that going to get out? Well, you just need to pull it straight down and bam. It totally glides through and it’s straight out!

How did Cloud Nine help you to achieve the look?

I really needed to create a natural curl, something that looked effortless. The Cloud Nine gave me enough bend without getting that too-hot-tonged bombshell look. Cloud Nine creates everyday curls that are long lasting.

How did you do it?

We used the Cloud Nines to create natural waves by curling the hair in, then curling the hair out, but leaving the ends out. The minute the ends are done it has a finished off polished look but we wanted a slightly raw finish. We tied it back into a low ponytail then pulled some of the roots out at the front and top to get it just a little bit dishevelled.

At $270, Cloud Nine is available in leading hair salons.